Seasonal Affective Disorder

Today, marks the Vernal Equinox which means that school children across this once proud land will senselessly squander thousands of eggs in attempt to balance them on end. The date also means that restaurants, not to mention Manhattan's newfound Duane-Readean glut of high end markets will begin to shake up their offerings. Soon, we will be forced to don ash and sackcloth, and sit with heads lowered in mourning as we lament the loss of those terrific truffle tasting menus. However, do not grind those teeth and dab those brackish tears too long, as an entire new crop (literally) of treats will soon descend upon us. Gotham Gastronomy offers a quick refresher course on some of our favorite standards of spring.

Loquat - These "Japanese plums" become available at the end of April or the start of May. Different varieties span the spectrum of color from caution yellow to safety vest orange, and resemble pears, apples, or apricots in size and shape. They all posses a delicate dialectic of sweet and tart, yielding a transecendental synthesis of "more, please." A good Loquat will taste of the same perfectly balanced acidity found in a bottle of Roullot.

Rocket - Okay, okay, I know we call this bitter green "Arugula" over here, but Rocket simply sounds cooler. (Still sematically superior sounding is the French word, "Roquette.") Sort of like RFK Jr., the leafs' taste many never equal it's name, but the green remains ubiquitous for good reason. Arugula can, of course, be found wherever a salad needs a salad needs a spark.

Ramp - This tasty tube should appear in the Union Square Green Market and entrees across town within the next few weeks and disappear with equal speed. Although they are as natural as one can find, Ramps taste like an unholy (but, oh, so good) union of the onion and garlic clove, and they can be used in the stead of or in addition to either item. Ramps are relatively cheap (a dollar or two for a bundle) and they should be scooped up by the uninitiated and experienced alike.

Fiddleheads - These infant ferns are another harbinger of the spring. They appear for only a few months and taste of the uniquely American terroir of the eastern woodland, with a hint of green-ish asparagus. Specifically speaking, the fiddlehead is the unfurled head of the unbloomed fern which resembles a violin's top. The unique shape is in fact the leaves of the plant tightly wound which makes for a chewy texture unique to this delicacy.

Rhubarb(!) - Rhubarb season begins in April and runs until June (available through September, but the summer's yield are inferior,) and it is still not nearly long enough! At GG, we can not get enough of this stuff! It's intensely tart, but with sufficient sugar, delicious! Aside from the typical jams and compotes, be on the look out for savory sauces, and unusual pairings in the vein of last year's olive oil craze.

Button Mushrooms - These simple staples of suburban stir fry are actually tastier during this time of year. Paraphrasing a Burguindian maxim, it's not the great chef who creates a masterpiece with the morels, it's the great chef who creates a masterpiece with button mushrooms.
Wild Salmon - The season actually does not begin until May, but we're excited, very excited! Hopefully this year will not follow recent trends of low yields and high prices; we'll be eagerly waiting.