Gotham Gastronomy

A Virtual Vase for the Flowers of Food and the Whorls of Wine...

Monday, March 13, 2006

Some Spring Wines

When spring came, even the false spring, there were no problems except where to be happiest.
- Ernest Hemingway

Here at GG, Papa is more pariah than pop star, and contrary to Hemy's hopes, the spring has bought some housekeeping issues; so, today's entry will be short and sweet, but certainly sweet. Yes, temperatures topping 60, it is once again time for that staple of the movable feast, the picnic wine! The picnic wine does not require Riedel stems, sometimes, a simple Solo shot is sufficient, and in dire cases, it can be quaffed directly from the bottle. Further, these vintological varieties are paired not with the food, but with the weather. The picnic wine must be lighter, cheery, and display a bit more grass than earth. Dear reader, do not mistake my intent, for the picnic wine is not Franzia, or even Daniel J.'s entree into the boxed wine world, but it is meant to be enjoyed with some friends, fun, and warm weather, not over analyzed.
GG has never been afraid to sacrifice ourselves for the greater good of humanity; this weekend, it was our livers that we laid on the line for y'all. (Ohhh, when shall it end? The cross we bear grows heavier as Easter approaches!) Burdens aside, some spring suggestions...

Pigato ‘le rus se ghine’ 2004 Bruna - We found this one on the list at Cru about two months ago, and immediately bought ourselves a case in anticipation of spring; in fact, Italians refer to to Pigatos as "wine made of sunshine"! The vintage that we sampled harbored the hue of the early morning sun breaking through fog, and tasted of grass, wildflowers, flowery herbs, and a dash of honey. It seemed perfect at cellar temperature and required no additional chilling or time to warm. Best of all, the bottles retailed for aboput ten dollars apiece!

Tijou et fils, Clos des Perrieres, 2002 - The bottle is a Savennieres which is to say that it is a Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley; the Loire Valley itself may be the primary producer of all picnic wine in the world, but for today, we'll focus on the vino in hand, not in the bush, err, vines. Averaging about $35 a bottle, this a fine specimen of the region and the season. There is a nicely balanced acidity and along with said aromas of herbals and grass. The finish is relatively quick, but offers up a tantalizing taste of caramel and lavender as a parting gift. Tijou is best drank chilled, but be weary of the Budweiser-Can-Tastebud-Numbing effects of over-chilling!

Juve y Camps Cava, 2001 - Cava is the ultimate wine for this season, dubbed poor man's champagne, the Spanish twist on the methode champenoisse is a decidedly different delight than their southern counterparts in France. The terroir of Penedes is not the chalk of Champagne and the primary grapes are Spanish varietals such as Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo. Cava will never hold the complexity, history, or romance of Champagne, but it does offer a "greener" alternative perfect for drinking without thinking, not to mention a lower price point! The Juve y Camps sample possessed a steady stream of small bubbles set against a golden backdrop, almost coordinated to match the afternoon sun. The juice was medium bodied with a toasty taste, and of course, the repetitivrequisitete of grass and herbs. (Most Cavas sell for between ten and twenty dollars.)

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