Gotham Gastronomy

A Virtual Vase for the Flowers of Food and the Whorls of Wine...

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

Jurancon

Last evening, I set out in search of an appropriate wine to pair with such a delightful day. A white seemed an obvious choice, but I preferred something a bit more playful than such Chard standards as Chablis or a Puligny Montrachet. Perhaps, a Gruner or a Riesling? Instead, I was introduced to the oft overlooked Jurancon. Wha-Rhone-What?
Exactly!
Bordeaux is like Bryant Park, replete with tradition and grand chateaus; the region is popular resides in the midtown of the wine of the wine world. Burgundy is more a Grammercy Park; the products are a bit more difficult to access, metaphorically gated, the region is slightly off the beaten path, and the respect the wines garner is largely from those "in-the-know". The Loire Valley provides us the winehattan with its Washington Square. In downtown France, there are lots of jugglers, musicians, and other street performers; most of the circus is entertaining, but not worth a second glass. However, occasionally a gem can be found.
Jurancon is sort of like that little vest pocket park where two avenues intersect... When one walks by, the pedestrian ponders whether the four square foot triangular patch of grass and flowers is even a park, but a little green sign assigns you of the appellation.
In the case in question, that little patch is 40km and located in the Southwest of France between Bordeaux and the Pyrenees; Jurancon roommates in this lush loft include Cahors, Madiran, Bergerac, and Monbazillac. (See map below.) All of these apellations present some fantabulous finds in the price to quality ratio realm, but I digress.
The mountains manifest themselves via frequent frosts in the spring, yet the autumn is awesome, dry and cool. The land is mixed, but according to Clive Coates, we can simplify it into a mix of marl or loam, with gravel, and some large stones.
The major components in Jurancon are Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng. Both Manseng grapes offer more florals than Wave Hill, not to mention an acidity worthy of Energizer! The Petit varietal yields little juice, but much alcohol; the grape is infamous for long vine time and offers a sweeter product.
The taste of the varietals translates almost directly to the finished wine; variables such as terroir and wine making style are less evident Jurancon than most of their peers.
The region produces sweet wines as well as dry, but both are marked by an abundance of fruit, specifically apple and peach, as well as overwhelming florals, particularly green flowers. There is little wood or nutty flavors to be found in a glass.
Historically, Jurancon is respected as the first area protected by the cru system. Further, on December 13, 1553, Henry the Great was christened with a Jurancon soaked clove of garlic rubbed across his lips. His grandfather raised the infant to the waiting crowd and proclaimed, "Here is the lion that is born to the ewe of Navarres.) Three and a half decades later, Henry ruled not just Jurancon, but all of France. French legend professes that this ritual instilled the king with a vigor that never left him... so, Jurancon got that going for it, which is nice!

Some producers of note...
- Domaine Cauhape
- Domaine Nigri
- Clos Lapeyre
- Domaine Bellegarde


0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home