Gotham Gastronomy

A Virtual Vase for the Flowers of Food and the Whorls of Wine...

Friday, April 28, 2006

Loire Valley Roadshow

Yesterday saw the annual Loire Valley Roadshow visit the Altman Building on West 18th Street. The tradeshow was a collection of wines from, surprise, surprise, the Loire Valley. Said region is located in France along the Loire River about 200 km from Paris. Some of the more popular apellations include Vouvray, Muscadet and Sancerre. Sancerres are comprised entirely of Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir (DO NOT BOTHER WITH THE LATTER FROM LOIRE... EVER!) However, the major varietals for the remainder of the region are Muscadet, Chenin Blanc, and Cabernet Franc.
Loire is large, very large, so it is difficult to describe to list characteristics, but speaking generally, we can make some generalizations. The terroir is varied, but chalk, schist, and flintrock are abundant. The Ocean Atlantique makes for a generally cool climate, albeit the far northern areas do experience a brief period of intense heat midsummer. Most harvests take place over the course of September.
The region offers reds, whites, roses, and even sparkling wines. The reds are not particularly impressive, but the relatively sweet cousins have a time and a place. The Loire Valley bills itself as the birthplace of the French language, and it very well may be the birthplace of the picnic wine as well.

Back to The Show...
The LVR is a tasting of hundreds of different wines. The majority of the products are unrepresented by wholesalers in large parts of the States, and many are not even imported. In an effort to increase distribution, the event features numerous producers as opposed to Sales drones. Regardless of quality, the opportunity to speak with winemakers is one to be seized. Also of note were the pieces of stone from various terroirs that accompanied the tastings. I seized the opportunity to lick pieces of these minerals in an attempt to identify the corresponding taste in the juice. Surprisingly, the experiment worked well, and I recommend it to anyone who has a similar opportunity, be it at a vineyard or a tasting.
The wines themselves were... Well, there is a reason that many are not represented. Yet, most of the lot were well made, with little chemical supplement, no reverse centrifuges, and none of that Cali Lab nonsense.
They are affordable and simple; these bottles are the type of products that many Europeans drink on a day-to-day basis and we should not become so absorbed in our snobbery as to think that every Frenchmen is quaffing La Tache daily.
Of particular note was J. Mourat, Pere et Fils and Domaine des Herbauges. Unfortunately, they are not yet available on our side of the pond. However, with the weather warming, go to the store, and go out on a limb! Most Loire wines retail between ten and fifteen dollars, pick up a few and take them for what they are. If you do not like the bottle, the loss is minimal, cook with it!

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